It’s already been 20 years since I’ve published my first book. Thirteen books later, Holsters for Concealed Carry and Combat is dated. A few of the producers featured in the book are retired or passed away, such as the late great Lou Alessi. Though, there are many new interesting and talented producers now. No matter who is the manufacturer, leather holsters require attention. Here are the recommendation for good accessories and gun parts which you may need: https://www.k-var.com/
Kydex has advanced a lot, but I agree that leather stays as a viable and even superior commodity for most cases. One factor that is always actual is the need for maintenance and time-tested specifics that will hold leather holsters functional and serviceable. Though they are really good, the leather holsters can’t last for ages.
A quality leather holster can last for a few years of everyday wear while a genuinely great leather holster will last for seven or eight years. If you actually make use of the holster, it can’t go on forever. Holsters are a renewable commodity like magazines, springs, and gun belts are. However, good care helps a lot in breaking the holster in and allowing for true speed and durability.
The holster’s service life can be extended due to retention. When the pistol shifts in the belt, a sloppy or loose fit causes excessive wear. With decent gear cost ($100 or more) and with a specially designed exotic leather spending a few hundred dollars, some maintenance is essential. Leather holsters are more secure than Kydex holsters and much more convenient than the inexpensive fabric rags that some people refer to as holsters. When broken in, the leather holster provides a great combination between pace and retention.
Leather, on the other hand, is more sensitive to damage than Kydex and strong nylon. Scrapes and even mold may harm a leather holster. There are a couple of things you can do to secure your holster at the forefront. First of all, keep the holster in a safe, dry location. Some time ago, I hung my Ted Blocker leather shoulder holster over a bedpost and fell asleep after a long day. My Boston Terrier chewed on it for hours, but it didn’t affect its functionality; just the look was affected.
I now hide my leather locked away from Lucy Pariah the Dingo. I’ve even seen squirrels damage leather in storage space. Luckily, I had a lot of this stuff on hand for picture props and historical posts.
The first break-in is a major problem. Even the 1911 and the Glock, some types of firearms do not have the same dimensions during their manufacturing process. Making a leather holster with a mold or a fake firearm should lead to a close fit.
Certain holsters can suit straight off the shelf, and these are generally off-the-shelf holsters. Various high-end holsters are custom-made, but they are assembled by a team of craftsmen in the same place. Typically, only a minor break-in is expected. A custom-made holster can be too close at first, necessitating a longer break-in.
The once suggested method was to sink the holster in alcohol and, when the holster was still wet, to put the pistol in the holster. Leave the holster in this way for a night , and the fit was fine. Perhaps a safer method is to bundle up your firearm in a snug plastic bag and put it in a holster. This bring on a small amount of additional material which enables a minor stretching of the holster for a proper fit.
Certain people put the pistol into the holster and carry it around the house for a couple of days and train the holster demonstration. If this feels like too much difficulty, well, that depends on how much time you’ve got. When you’re finished, the holster will give you a top level of fit, outstanding retention, and real efficiency.
Holsters must be maintained in a clean and dry way. Foreign object in the holster can scrape the end of the pistol, but Kydex is poorer in this respect. An oil-soaked sponge works well to wipe the floor. Choose a flat stick or a form to force the sponge through the holster to clean inner walls. Allow the holster to dry appropriately.
It is necessary not to use any finishing oils since they simply make the holster smoother and break down the hard wax that protects the holsters. (A natural finish holster without this wax doesn’t last as long.) The holster should be waxed and the sides of the holsters, where the two parts are fused together, should be waxed properly.
Another issue which mostly impacts holsters is perspiration, and t here’s no chance to prevent from it. Although certain holsters are placed on the belt, the interior of the waistband holster is especially susceptible to body oils. Perspiration may wet the leather and affect its color. I’ve had a couple of holsters that have got a darker tone, and they don’t last as long, until this has happened.
Although certain holsters are delivered rough, without finish and waxing on the premise of a stronger grip against the body or clothes, or for a lower cost, a fully finished and waxed holster will last longer. It’s better to get a layer between the body and the holster, like a simple T-shirt.
Exposure to the elements is also known as a hazard to field holsters. Concealed carrying holsters can often be open to poor weather and good drenching. It is essential that the holster is appropriately dried after such an event. Never imply a hair dryer. Leave the holsters to dry naturally instead. The mold can be set in a relatively short period of time, based on the environment. Decent leather holsters are an excellent purchase and must be adequately cared for. In return, they’ll serve you for a long period of time.
Is there any other maintenance tip you have in mind or any story about cleaning leather holsters? Share them below in the comments.